Le prochain magazine de BW Confidential (mars/avril) sera un numéro spécial ‘Sustainability’, avec un dossier consacré aux stratégies de développement durable des maisons de composition. La Fragrance Foundation France vous dévoile en avant-première un extrait de cette parution. Pour retrouver le dossier complet ainsi que d’autres analyses sur l’impact du développement durable sur le retail, l’e-commerce et le packaging, contacter BW Confidential : firstname.lastname@example.org
Sustainability requirements are now at the heart of client briefs and thereby altering both the nature of fragrances and the way in which they are created. Perfumers now consider both the olfactive qualities and the sustainability credentials of an ingredient when deciding whether to incorporate in a formula.
“The classification of biodegradable raw materials or the naturality of a product, is something that has been happening for a while. It’s work that we undertake internally but also with our suppliers,” comments Cosmo International general manager Marc Blaison. “You have to have an IT system that enables the perfumers to understand these things in their formulas and to respect the specifications of the client.”
IFF global head of innovation Valery Claude says the company provides perfumers with early opportunities to experiment with the new constraints imposed by renewable and biodegradability questions. “A lot of perfumers are driving the change and are really keen and engaged,” comments Claude. “The other aspect is in terms of systems, and the complexity that all these KPIs are bringing. We need effective data management systems to make sure we are provided with access in a speedy manner to be able to create. So, algorithm development is quite important.”
“Often a perfumer has favorite materials with which they like to work; now they have to find a way to recreate their habits or reflexes to include materials that are sustainable,” comments Takasago head of global fine fragrances Nathalie Helloin-Kamel. “There are a lot of new categories to take into account like biodegradable, upcycled, renewable.”
Fragrance houses are also looking to make more concentrated and powerful fragrances which will go towards reducing both costs and environmental impact. “Using performance optimized molecules is a new kind of formulation. If we maximize the performance, we can reduce the dosage. It’s a compacted perfume compared to conventional fragrances,” comments Iberchem director of sustainability Guillaume Audy. “It reduces the packaging and lowers the transportation footprint.”
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